Orange is too hot. Probably decarbed too since you got it too hot. Try visible red heat in natural light not sunshine. As a blacksmith and enthusiastic amateur heat-treater I can assure you that it is no easy thing to determine critical temperature by eye. My first guess is that you're not getting it hot enough and it's not getting hardened.
Have you tested the punch any other way? For instance, is it harder to file than the original O-1? I'm having trouble laying hands on the right book here in the house, so I can't give you the numbers. One technique used to estimate critical temperature is to check the steel with a magnet; critical temperature is usually right above the temperature at which steel ceases to be magnetic.
I have a magnet dangling on a wire and when the steel no longer pulls on the magnet, then I know what color I'm looking for.
Question: Why didn't you draw the temper of your punch? Steel is rarely used at full hardness, it's too brittle. O-1 has maximum hardness and toughness after being tempered just above degrees. Question 2: Do you have shear on the the end of your punch or is that a trick of the light?
For a punch that small I would make the end square and flat. It supports the corners better, and the corners are where all the pressure is. Question 3: I may well be getting carried away, but it is there any clearance between your punch and your die? This also affects how much pressure is required.
The first paragraph was the most important, the rest is me geeking out. Gerry and John posted while I was geeking out.
Basically, what Gerry said. Get that little feller hot and then quench it. I've had bad results trying to harden tiny parts made with O-1 in that I can't get them very hard. The parts need to be quite bright- dull red isn't enough. I know it's O-1, but quench it in water as quickly as you can get from flame to water.
It should come out glass hard and a file should just skate over it. That's too hard for most uses, so temper back as needed. The main reason for the drill rod was that lacking a grinder I could get it in the correct diameter, i. If I could get it hard I would temper it. Took that idea from the Greenlee punches. Clearance is. I believe my problem is in not knowing what the correct procedure is, that is, the Austenitic temperature, time at that point and exact tempering temp and time.
I've got three feet of this stuff so I can afford to do some experimenting with it. You might need to hold the small part right over the quench so you can drop it in very quickly. A solution could e to heat up the washers in mass of several to slow down cooling time so you can get them into the quench fast enough. You can cool small parts in water with 01 I've dome it many times. If the holes crack,stomp them tightly with fine steel wool and they will act like solid and not crack.
Use a flat ended punch,and always tightly fill any holes in any 01 or W1 part with steel wool to stop cracking the steel. That should be plenty to make your punch. For O-1 hardening temperature is Use a magnet on a piece of wire. When it no longer sticks to the punch while heating the punch then you have got it hot enough.
Do this test over your container of quenching oil and simply drop it in. Temper in the oven at Are you absolutely sure that the steel you have is O-1? I have made that mistake before If the steel is cooled quickly is becomes martensite which is very hard but brittle. If cooled slowly the steel will be annealed pearlite.
Afterward the steel is tempered is ready to be made into something! Instead of wasting your MAPP and probably your steel quench at F will not harden even the outermost layer of the steel but is almost guaranteed to destroy the temper there are other ways to actually harden O2.
Find someone into ceramics or stained glass and ask them to heat your steel and quench it there. Tempering in your kitchen oven can be hazardous.
Not from the standpoint of burning the house down, but from your wife finding out what you are doing in her oven. Since my wife has retired, I had to get myself a toaster oven to temper my irons.
Back when I was making knives, I quenched O1 in olive oil, the cheapest gallon size I could buy. The advantage is that it smells like baking oatmeal cookies. Learned that from Bob Loveless. I quenched O1 in water by mistake once. The blade cracked in a dozen places. Never tried it again. I agree with gilgaron to start out with simply because it uses water to quench and the 2 steels have nearly identical properties once finished.
I would wood, for aperitif? Does he mean plunge it down once for a quick quench and then move to the oven, or plunge it until it cools considerably, below degrees? Thanks and Happy New Year.
Also, I believe a2 is not as friendly for DIY hardening. Cool — looking forward to the Roubo-based planes article. Please help me understand the advantages of heat treating O1 steel vs buying the harder A2 steel. But if you are using something found, scavenged or of otherwise uncertain provenance you may have problems hardening it. The steel used in any given blade is not an easy thing to determine. A metallurgical lab charges a fair amount to test for alloy and there is no home test kit that I know of "Look, Honey, it turned blue!
It could fracture at worst or warp like crazy at least. The old-timers "sparked" steels to tell what was in them.
The sparks generated from a grinder will burn with different visual characteristics depending on the alloying elements. Like the different colorants in fireworks. So you can grind a corner, observe the sparks, then grind a known steel and try to compare the little spark-flares for shape, brightness, complexity, etc. Mostly we're talking oil vs. The air hardening ones are the Cr-V and stuff that us Galoots don't use too much and that weren't used in old tools at all.
It is safer to quench an unknown, perhaps water-hardening steel in oil than vice versa. The water-hardening steel may not harden in the oil and if that is the case, you can try again in water. I don't mean to muddy the water with all this but, hey, if it were easy, everybody'd be doing it. Got a good pyrometer? No problem. During the crystal transormation from ferrite to austenite steel ceases to be magnetic at that temp. This phenomenon is called the "Curie Point" after the discoverer, Pierre.
So one can simply heat the metal till the magnet is no longer attracted to it then quench in oil. I like to use peanut oil because the flash point is very high which minimizes the risk of fire the risk is still there, though; be prepared: use long tongs to handle the work to keep your hand out of the way, wear gloves and keep the fire extinguisher handy and it smells nice r when it smokes.
How to get the blade to the Curie point is probably the biggest problem for the DIYer. When the metal is glowing red, the carbon behaves as if it's in a liquid and can therefore migrate around as it pleases. This is necessary for the hardening to occur but near the surface of the metal those unfaithful little carbon atoms would just as soon run off with any available oxygen-sluts it runs into oxygen is soooo seductive and they're lost then forever.
We hate that.
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