Tenoning jig manual

The multi-position control levers and extra-large clamping handwheel ensure accurate and repeatable results. Like all Grizzly jigs, the T comes with a 1-year warranty which covers parts and assures the unit is free from factory defects. The T manual was written by our U. The complete and easy-to-read manual provides full instructions on how to assemble and maintain your tenoning jig. Parts and accessories for the jig may be available online and shipped from the Grizzly parts warehouse in Springfield, MO.

Follow instructions for lubricating and changing accessories. Before using the machine, check for any damaged parts. Check for alignment of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts, and any other conditions that may affect its operation.

A guard or any other part that is damaged should be properly repaired or replaced with Delta or factory authorized replacement parts. Cluttered areas and benches invite accidents. Your shop is a potentially dangerous environment. Children and visitors can be injured. Check to see that all guards are in place, secured, and working correctly to prevent injury. Tools, scrap pieces, and other debris can be thrown at high speed, causing injury. The use of accessories and attachments not recommended by Delta may cause damage to the machine or injury to the user.

Disconnect the power source to the machine. Make sure that the blade has come to a complete stop before adjusting the jig or the workpiece. Keep both hands on the operating handles when operating the jig. Replace the blade guard of the saw when the jig operation is complete.

Refer to the owner's manual of the saw for safety rules and other instructions. Although you can use many methods for joining wood, the classic mortise-and-tenon joint is one of the strongest and most widely used joints in woodworking.

This jig will help you perform this task much easier than ever before. Base and Vertical Work Support Assembly 8. M10 x 20mm Socket Head Screw 2. Clamp Assembly 9. Handles 2 3. M8 Flat Washer M8 x 50mm Socket Head Screw Clamp Arm M10 Lockwasher 2 M10 x 25mm Socket Head Screw Remove the protective coating from all unpainted surfaces.

This coating may be removed with a soft cloth moistened with kerosene. Do not use acetone, gasoline or lacquer thinner for this purpose. After cleaning, cover the unpainted surfaces with a good quality household floor paste wax. Disconnect the machine from the power source and remove the blade guard before using the tenoning jig. Reinstall the blade guard immediately after jig use is complete. Always unplug the machine before removing or installing the blade guard.

Fasten the clamp arm A Fig. Fasten the clamp assembly C Fig. Fasten the handles F Fig. F Fig. If your saw is a left-tilt saw, relocate the guide bar G Fig. Loosen the small lock handle J Fig. Remove the large lock handle K and flat washer L Fig. J L Fig.

Use the supplied 3mm hex wrench to loosen the set screw M Fig. Remove the micro-adjustment assembly N from the tenoning jig Fig. Lift the jig assembly P Fig. Remove the two button head screws and flat washers R from the base. Slide the base H Fig. Fasten the base to the guide bar with the two button head screws and flat washers R Fig.

The tenoning jig is furnished with an adjustable guide bar A Fig. Machine Registry. Photo Index Home. Index by Manufacturer. Index by Machine Type. Recent Submissions.

Submit New Photo. Classified Ads. Vintage Machinery Store. Workshop Calculations. Patent Search. Book Store. Member Profiles. Make a spacer equal in thickness to your panel stock plus your flat ground rip blade. Save your spacers so you can use them in the future to cut the same thickness tenons for other projects. Remember, this technique involves cutting both tenon faces relative to the front face of the rail.

To do this you will need to shift the rail in the tenoning jig. A spacer does the trick! Photo 7. Clamp the rail and spacer in the tenoning jig with spacer against the jig, and the rail front face against the spacer.

The rail end should be tight against the top of the riser platform, and the spacer end should be above the tenon shoulder. Photo 8. The first cut using the tenoning jig with the spacer in place cuts the front face of the tenon. Using a flat ground rip blade cleans up the corner of the shoulder at the same time. Adjust the distance so your tenon will be centered close to the end of the rail. Set your blade height short initially. Wear a face shield when cutting your tenons.

Small cutoff pieces can go flying! Make successive passes slowly raising the blade until the tenon face is cut and the shoulder corner is square and finished. Photo 9. The second cut with the rail oriented the same, but this time without the spacer, cuts the rear face of the tenon. This shifts the rail left so the rear face of the tenon can be cut.

Photo A good fit is made when the tenon goes in the groove with minimal force, but not too loose. Too tight is not good either because adding glue will make it very hard to assemble the joint. Test the fit of the tenon in the sample panel groove. If your tenon is too tight, reduce the thickness of the spacer. Cut the panel grooves using the flat ground rip blade.